The Best Face Oils for Every Skin Type

GRAPE SEED OIL
ELINA ORGANICS SKIN RENEWING OIL BLEND

You can create different aromatherapeutic blends using certain plant oils as carrier oils and blend them with essential oils. For face formulations, I do not suggest to exceed the amount of essential oils over 1%. To simplify, use 99 parts of carrier and 1 part of essential oil, combined. We need to remember that essential oils should not be used topically without dilution (except tea tree oil). So, in this particular interview, I would like to discuss the properties of plant oils (carrier oils) used in beauty formulations as an emollience.

Oils can be beneficial not only for dry complexion but for normal and even oily skin. Some oils can be universally used for every complexion. For example, cold-pressed grape seed oil is light when you apply it on your skin. It penetrates easily and does not leave a greasy film. It contains Omega6 fatty acids and Vitamin E which are powerful antioxidants with skin-restoring and anti-aging properties. Omega6 fatty acids are very important for skin health. They nourish the skin and support its protective barrier. Grape seed oil contains Linolenic Acid which is a known beauty nutrient that helps to not only improve the appearance but also helps to heal and calm the skin.

Overall, grape seed oil helps not only to condition the skin but also to heal, calm, reduce hyperpigmentation and discolorations from scars and stretch marks. Into grape seed oil, you can add different essential oils to create formulas for different complexions. For example, if you wanted to make a face oil blend for dry and aging complexion, you could add up to 1% of essential oils like rose, ylang-ylang, and sandalwood. All which have rejuvenating, anti-wrinkle, and skin firming properties.

In the Elina Organics formula of Skin Renewing Oil Blend I use Grape Seed oil infused with Rose Hips and White Truffles. Rose hips are the best natural source of Vitamin C. White Truffles are high in antioxidants that deliver anti-aging, skin protective benefits and also helps to hydrate and heal the skin. I also use in this formula Sea Buckthorn Oil which nourishes the skin with beta certain (pre-cursor of Vitamin A), and other skin-restoring phytonutrients. I complete this formula with the classic anti-wrinkle blend of essential oils of jasmine, chamomile, and ylang-ylang, which delivers a soothing and sensual aroma.

SHOP SKIN RENEWING OIL BLEND →

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AVOCADO OIL
ELINA ORGANICS SAHARA SOUFFLÉ

I also would like to make sure that people understand that oils by themselves can not hydrate the skin because oils are 100% fat. Very often people say that you can moisturize with oils. Oils can not moisturize but they can help to seal your moisture into the skin and protect it from being stripped by cold winds, excessive heat, and other environmental hazards. That is why I don’t believe it is a good idea to completely substitute your moisturizer by using an oil blend. However, oils can enhance the property of your moisturizer by applying the oil over it to seal and protect your skin if you are in harsh conditions. For that reason it is best to choose heavier oils which do not penetrate the skin well and will stay on the surface to produce a protective oily film over your skin, I suggest avocado oil.

Avocado oil contains over 20% of essential unsaturated fatty acids. It is a blend of beauty nutrients like beta keratin, lecithin, Vitamin D and E, Linoleic and Oleic Acids. It helps to increase the water-soluble collagen content of your skin. It even offers moderate protection from UV exposure. I like to use avocado oil in transparent masks which people can leave on for an entire day and night for more hydration and nourishment.

In the Elina Organics Sahara Souffle, I use avocado oil in combination with hydrating and restoring ingredients like Camels Milk, Snow Mushrooms, Shea Butter, and Almond Oil infused with Carrot Seeds. I suggest using this leave-on mask for dry and delicate complexions.

SHOP SAHARA SOUFFLÉ →

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ALMOND OIL
ELINA ORGANICS RESTORING DEW ELIXIR

When it comes to oily skin many people for a long time tried to stay away from oils. You can even find that claim on many labels that say “oil-free”. I am glad that more and more professionals are starting to understand that is not the right approach. If you do not nourish oily complexion properly and over-dry it, your oil glands in the skin will compensate and overproduce oil which will cause breakouts and excessive shine. People with oily complexion need to be careful with the application of heavy oils like olive oil, cocoa butter, etc. However, they can really benefit from lighter oils like almond oil.

The carrier oil of almond contains up to 60% of Oleic Acid and 25% of essential unsaturated fatty acids. It also has up to 1% of sterolins and vitamin E. Sweet cold-pressed Almond Oil is lightweight and offers antibacterial and anti-fungal properties which is helpful for acne-prone complexion. It is a beautiful carrier oil and aromatherapeutic blend for any complexion. If you use just a couple drops of this oil over the oily skin, it will not clog your pores. For problem complexion, I suggest to use it in combination with Tea Tree Oil, Peppermint, and Turmeric essential oils. As a formulator, I never exceed oil content in formulations for oily skin above 20%. I like oily people to be able to nourish their skin with light and breathable lotions which do not leave a greasy film over the skin but still support the epidermis with beneficial oils.

In Elina Organics Restoring Dew Elixir I use Almond and Grape Seed oil in combination with Fulvic and Mandelic Acids which helps to energize the skin, prevent breakouts, and improve skin texture while reducing scarring. It is also enriched with skin-restoring hormone-balancing botanicals like red clover and antibacterial willow bark extract.

SHOP RESTORING DEW ELIXIR →

Elina Organics Created The Purest Environment For You!

Elina was interviewed for NewBeauty.com about how to make sure that we are keeping a safe environment during the virus season for our clients.

She shared what we do at Elina Organics and what other spa owners can do to protect their clients during this challenging virus season and what we can do to improve their immune system.

HOW OZONE CAN BE USED TO
DESTROY THE NEW CORONAVIRUS & DISINFECT OTHER AREAS
LEARN MORE →

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SANITIZATION
AUTOCLAVES, AIR PURIFIERS, & ESSENTIAL OIL DIFFUSERS

Not only during flu season and virus season but on a daily basis beauty professionals must keep safe practices to make sure our clients are protected from pathogens. This, of course, starts with sanitizing all instruments, all surfaces after each client, running a water purification system, washing towels with antiseptics or bringing towels to a sanitizing boil. At Elina Organics, we take sanitization very seriously. Additionally to sanitizing all of our instruments based on state regulations, we also use an autoclave and UV sanitizers because we can not be too careful when it comes to pathogens. We run an air purifying system to oxygenate the air in every room. On top of that, we have essential oil diffusers. Science has proved to us that essential oils can reduce up to 85% of pathogens in the air.

OZONE
OZONATED WATER, HIGH FREQUENCY DARCENVAL MACHINES, INJECTABLE OZONE

Additionally to herbal tea, we offer clients purified ozonated water. After each extraction or any type of skin manipulation, we use a high-frequency Darcenval machine which also generates ozone and helps to sanitize the skin. Additionally, to a purifying effect, ozone also helps to speed up skin healing and rejuvenation. Being an organic and clinical spa, we have a medical director, Dr. Lutskovsky who is a D.O. and doctor of regenerative medicine. Because of him, we can also offer injectable Ozone – which helps to heal pathogens under the skin surface, remove cysts, improve scarring, and even stimulate hair growth over the scalp area by purifying the scalp and improving circulation in that area. We also offer the latest systemic ozone treatments which include ozonation of the client’s blood through IV. Learn more here: https://americanregen.com/ozone-therapy/ It helps to really reduce the number of pathogens and viruses inside the blood, oxygenate the blood and allow it to deliver to every cell in the body. It is a very deep detoxifying treatment. We also use ozonated water during hydro facials and face compresses. We are starting from purifying the air, our water, and sanitizing every instrument and surface, to make sure that every client is coming into the purest environment as possible.

SPA
NAIL SERVICES & CLINICAL ROOMS

In our Michigan spa, we offer nail services additionally to face and body services. For many years we have used disposable liners in all of the water tubs as well as ozonated water during the nail procedures and sanitizer autoclaves.

In our clinical rooms, we have a surgical air purification system that combines several ways of purifying the air, not only to kill bacteria but also to destroy dead bacteria and viruses out of the air.

 

PRODUCTS
INGREDIENTS, TESTERS, SAMPLES

All Elina Organics products are handmade with organic ingredients and instead of artificial fragrances they contain essential oils that are known for having an antiseptic effect. So for example, if you have a scent of lavender in your cream but it is a synthetic fragrance, it will not have an antiseptic effect vs real essential oils which will have a real therapeutic and antiseptic effect. In the area with product testers we make sure that every bottle is sanitized with antiseptics several times a day. We offer samples in individual jars.

Elina Fedotova is the Founder and Chief Formulator for Elina Organics, President of the Association of Holistic Skin Care Practitioners, and an award-winning esthetician.

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Peptides: The Skincare Buzz Ingredient You Need To Know About

 

Elina was interviewed for Huda Beauty. Read the full article  here.

IN LAYMAN’S TERMS, WHAT ARE PEPTIDES?
CAN YOU DRAW ANY ANALOGIES THAT WOULD HELP THE READER BETTER UNDERSTAND WHAT THEY ARE?

Our skin is comprised mostly of proteins like collagen and elastin. Each protein is built from amino acids arranged into a long chain.  A peptide is a fragment of a protein made from just a few amino acids linked together that have the ability to signal and stimulate cellular regeneration. They have the ability to penetrate through the skin barrier, deep into the live skin cells and signal your cells to regenerate collagen and other proteins. Skin Cells communicate with each other by peptides and proteins. Natural peptides—whether applied topically or taken internally, have the ability to restore damaged skin cells. Peptides definitely add anti-aging, deeply hydrating, and skin-restoring properties to any skin care formulation.

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SHOULD EVERYONE USE PEPTIDES?
OR ARE THEY IDEAL FOR CERTAIN SKIN TYPES (MATURE, DAMAGED, ETC.)?

Even young people can benefit from peptides if they have unwanted brown spots as a result of over sun exposure, or have problem complexion resulting in acne scars. Peptides have the ability to speed up the healing and restoring process of the skin. For people with mature complexion, peptides should definitely be one of the most important ingredients in their everyday skin care routine because they will help to firm, hydrate, and rejuvenate their skin. Different kinds of peptides are available today on the market for cosmetic formulators. For example, neuropeptides help to relax wrinkles by limiting the production and release of the neurotransmitters that control facial muscle contractions. Less squinting definitely helps to reduce the formation of new lines and make you look more friendly. Enzyme inhibitor peptides specifically help to regulate the production of melanocytes (your pigment cells) and help to reduce stubborn age spots. Carrier peptides help to deliver trace elements and bioactive nutrients into your skin.

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HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU APPLY PEPTIDES?
AND WHERE DO THEY FIT IN YOUR DAILY SKINCARE ROUTINE?

For a mature person, I would suggest using a formulation with peptides at least once or twice a day. Peptides could be part of your serum, moisturizer, or could be in a special peptide mask with a higher concentration.

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ARE THERE ANY CONCERNS TO BE AWARE OF?
CAN YOU OVERDO IT LIKE RETINOL OR ACIDS?

No. Retinol and alpha hydroxy acids exfoliate your skin by removing dead skin cells. When you overuse retinol or AHA acids, you can accidentally leave your skin without an important protective layer of dead skin cells, which is necessary for your skin barrier. Natural Peptides do not exfoliate your skin, they are part of the self-repair mechanism of your skin cells. Human skin is made mostly from proteins like collagen, elastin, and keratin. I do not see any danger in overdoing natural peptides at all, only benefits!

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PLEASE SHARE 2-3 OF YOUR FAVORITE PRODUCTS FEATURING PEPTIDES.

You should not ask me that question because as a formulator I will, of course, show favor towards my own products! My favorites are Elina Organics Natural Peptide Mask, Mermaid Elixir, and Elite Rejuvenating Cream.

SHOP PEPTIDES →

Q&A With Elina For Today Show – Coronavirus Skin Care Tips: Stress Acne, At-Home Facials And More

Skincare Experts Share Top Tips For People Stuck At Home During Coronavirus.

Elina was interviewed for the Today Show. Read the full article here.

Scroll down to read Elina’s step by step home facial regimen!

1) Salons and spas have been temporarily closing across the country in response to the coronavirus. Why is it so important that they are doing this? If your local spa is still open, is it ok to cancel/postpone your facial right now?

Being a spa owner in the states of Michigan and Illinois, I am going through all of the hardships of being temporarily closed for operations. It is difficult, but I truly believe it was the right decision and I support it. By analyzing data, we can see how fast this virus is spreading, and how many new people are getting infected every day. I think we need to remain closed at least until numbers will start to decline.

2) While stuck at home, how can women take care of their skin? How important is a consistent routine?

When you are stuck at home, one on hand it is difficult because you can not have your normal life routine, but on the other hand, you can get more time for yourself! Some people are not spending enough time outside, in the fresh open air, and because of that, they noticing that their skin starting to look tired and pale. I would encourage people to do a home facial at least once a week. It will help them decongest their pores, improve circulation, remove excessive dead skin cells, by gentle exfoliation, and support their skin with beneficial nutrients like vitamins, proteins, minerals, and antioxidants.

3) A lot of women are saying their skin looks healthier while stuck at home – why do you think that is?

Now people have the ability to sleep in, which is crucial for skin’s health and appearance. That is why the term “beauty sleep” was created. Before, many women had to wake up very early, drink a lot of coffee (caffeine dehydrates the skin ) to stay focused. Many of them had to apply conventional makeup which is filled with petrochemicals, artificial dyes and fragrance, silicone-based ingredients, preservatives, and other toxins. That makeup was covering their faces for long working hours. Silicone-based ingredients do not allow the skin to breathe in oxygen and eliminate toxins. These are the 2 essential functions of our largest organ – breathing and eliminating. Their skin was also exposed to different air pollutants on the highway on the way to work.

None of this is happening now. Most of us can sleep in, wake up and spend time in the comfort of our homes. We do not have to drink as much coffee and have time to make a healthy and balanced breakfast. We also can enjoy our beauty hour with a clean and effective skincare regimen.

4) What do you suggest for DIY treatments at home?

Even if some of us do not have quality skincare products on a shelf, they can semi substitute them with food from their kitchen. For example, they can use kombucha or yogurt for hydration and balancing the skin’s microbiome.

Exfoliate, hydrate and brighten their skin with natural alpha-hydroxy acids, beauty vitamins like A & C, and enzymes by massaging their skin with a slice of papaya, apple, or kiwi.

They can make a fresh mask from vegetable juices or smoothies mixed with a little bit of organic oat flower, and nourish their skin with natural polysaccharides, minerals, and antioxidants.

Even if worst comes to worst, and people do not have fresh produce at home, because they wanted to limit their time at the stores, they still can exfoliate by scrubbing a face with simple rice flour. They also can nourish and calm their skin by applying rice water over the skin. Rice water can be made easily by just soaking (preferably organic) rice in clean water. 1 part of rice and 4 parts of water for 30 minutes.

Rice is one of the ancient sources of skin nutrients! Different forms of Rice (Oryza sativa) could be used for skincare formulations. For centuries, people have used rice water infusion to soothe and calm inflamed skin. Nowadays science has proved that a water extract of rice has an anti-inflammatory and calming effect, it also provides both short- and long-term skin hydration. Rice, known for being safe to use even on sensitive skin. It nourishes the skin, stimulates collagen production, helps to improve elasticity, and protects it from free radicals. Rice is rich in amino acids, vitamin E, ferulic acid and allantoin. You can nourish your face and hair with rice. You can use rice water to make as a base for different face masks, or you can grain the rice and use the rice flour to create a face scrub which will help to brighten and polish the skin. It can be used on the face and entire body.

If your skin is really congested, I suggest that you steam your face to open the pores and detoxify it. If you do not have a professional home steamer, you can simply brew organic herbal tea and put it in a bowl, cover your head with a towel and place your face over the bowl so the steam will nourish your skin without overheating it. If for some reason, you do not have herbal tea, you can simply use potatoes, cabbage or carrots. All three of those vegetables have a very calming, soothing, and anti-inflammatory effect on the skin. People with sensitive or acne-prone complexion especially benefit from steaming their faces with those vegetables. Carrots will infuse their skin with skin-restoring beta keratin. Potatoes and cabbage have a good concentration of vitamin C and polysaccharides which have a very calming and soothing effect on the skin. After your face steam, you can pure them in a blender, mix with honey, and apply as a face hydrating calming and healing mask.

5) On the other hand, could you speak to the effects that stress has on skin and give a few suggestions for women to fight back against stress side effects like acne, etc.?

Stress can significantly affect our skin. It physically intoxicates us with stress hormones like cortisol. I was interviewed about it for the book “Cortisol control and beauty connection” in 2006 about it. My suggestion to avoid emotional stress: Minimize your TV and news exposure. Try to watch it 1-2 times a day, just to be informed not overwhelmed. Use herbal tea to relax: for example chamomile tea helps you sleep better. Enjoy some healthy and happy foods like dark chocolate which helps with the production of serotonin and others “happy” hormones. Aromatherapy is also very helpful for stress relief. Use your favorite blend of essential oils in your home diffusers like lavender, chamomile, rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, grapefruit, tangerine, and orange. All of those essential oils not only reduce stress and anxiety but also have a powerful antiseptic, antiviral properties and help to clean air from pathogens.

If you do not have a diffuser, you can simply put a few drops of essential oils over cotton bolls and distribute them around your home. You also can spray your rooms with aromatherapy mist made from 30 drops of essential oils and 3 oz of water. You can find different aromatherapy recipes online. Taking a relaxing bath will help to relieve anxiety and stress. Put a few drops of your favorite essential oils in your bathtub. You can add a cup of baking soda and Epson or sea salt in your bathtub, it will help to detoxify and soften your skin with minerals. If that is not enough, take 10-20 drops of tincture of Valerian root which will help you to relax and sleep better. I also suggest to watch a comedy or read a good novel. Remember stressful time will pass, and if we will keep social distancing we will battle this virus faster. We can use this time to restore our body, reconnect with our loved ones and ourselves, to pray and meditate, review our life and maybe change priorities.

6) For spa-goers who want to send some love to their facialist at this time, what do you recommend? Should they pre-book their next appointment, buy products from the spa, send a tip their way, anything else?

Being in business for over 20 years, we have some clients who have been with us for practically 2 decades. We know each other lives, we are good friends, and definitely, our clients want to support us through this time as well as we want to support them. The ways to support beauty professionals during this time is to first of all purchase skincare products. People can do this after a phone or video consultation with their estheticians. Definitely, we encourage clients to refer new people to us through social media. Now people have more time to leave positive reviews and personal testimonies on yelp, google, and other online platforms. That can help to direct new clients to their favorite spa. It is wonderful if people can purchase gift certificates for future services or for their family and friends. It might help salons to continue on, maybe pay rent during this difficult time, and when customers will be able to come back, be there for them.

7) How has this whole experience been for you? Are you eager to get back to work/normal life?

This whole experience has of course been challenging for me. My company produces and distributes skin care products only for salon professionals. Elina Organics is a professional clinical organic skincare line that is not available in retail stores. People can buy it in medical offices, spa and on our website elinaorganics.com only. Because the majority of salons throughout the country are closed, our professional orders look very different. During this time – I focused on selling online and organized phone conferences to train Elina Organics estheticians on how to work and sell skincare products through video and phone consultations. We are offering dropships so that their customers do not have to exit their homes. I also spent time formulating hand sanitizer which will be made from food-grade alcohol (80%) instead of isopropyl which is a toxic form of alcohol. This hand sanitizer is enriched with skin hydrating and nursing Tremella mushroom extract and copper peptides. I have ordered all of the ingredients and labels and we are starting production next week. We are going to be donating this sanitizer to UPS and USPS workers as well as grocery store workers, and of course health professionals. We will also be adding in one bottle to every online order. I am very excited about this plan!

8) What would you recommend (step by step) for women to do an at-home facial?

Step 1: Cleanse your skin with a sulfate-free cleanser. If you do not have one, you can mix a little bit of yogurt or Keifer with a tiny pinch of baking soda. It will help to open your pores, detoxify your skin and absorb excess oil. The yogurt and Keifer will help to balance the skin’s microbiome with friendly bacteria and will gently exfoliate your skin with lactic acid and nourish it with milk protein.

Step 2: Steam your skin with an at-home steamer or over a pot of hot water with essential oils or herbal tea. If you have acne, I suggest steaming your face over cabbage, potatoes, carrots or artichokes. For people with dry and aging complexion, I suggest steaming with chamomile, rose petals, green and black tea. Also if you have mushrooms you can steam over them which will give you additional skin brightening and detoxifying effect.

Step 3: Exfoliate by gently scrubbing the skin with powdered rose hips. You can find them online in a powder form. Rose hips have the highest concentration of vitamin C, B, Beta carotene and other beauty nutrients. You can mix the powder with a little bit of water and scrub your face. It will polish your skin and clean your pores. If you do not have rose hips that you can scrub your face with rice flour or buckwheat flour.

Step 4: If you do not have a nutritious mask from your favorite skincare company, any complexion will benefit from masks made from oat flour and if you don’t have oat flour you can cook organic oats and mix it with hot water honey and a few drops of lemon juice.

Step 5: Massage face over the mask with rose quartz or jade rollers and rinse it off after 5-10 minutes.

Step 6: Mist rice water over your face as a toner or use copper infused water. Make it by filling with a water a copper vessel or dish and let it be infused with copper ions overnight. Copper is essential to skin nutrient which helps to firm the skin by stimulating collagen production. It also has a very strong anti-bacterial and skin calming effect which will help to reduce inflammation for problem complexion (acne and rosacea).

Step 7: Complete the procedure with the application of your favorite natural serums and moisturizer. If you do not have them, you can massage 5 drops of vegetable glycerin over your wet face to moisturize your normal to the oily complexion. Use avocado oil, coconut, or olive oil if you are very dry. You can put 1-2 drops of your favorite essential oils into these oils.

Step 8: Relax, smile, express your gratitude and enjoy your day!

9) Anything else women should know about skincare at this moment in time? Anything they should consider while being at home that could help keep their skin in good shape til their next facial?

We need to remember that we nourish our skin not only topically but also from the inside out. What we eat is very important. We know that during stressful times we are often prone to eat more comfort foods. Try to stay away from processed foods, cheese, and heavy dairy products which can congest our skin. People with acne-prone complexion have to avoid sugary and starchy foods. Of course, drink plenty of water but if you do not like to drink water, you can drink herbal tea. If you do not have herbal tea you can create a tea by putting fruits in boiled water or keep them in water in the fridge overnight. However ice drinks are not that healthy for our digestive system so if you are drinking water, try to drink it room temperature or warm to support your digestive system and skin. The skin is a reflection of what is going on inside our body. By looking at the face I can also give a suggestion to my client on what I want them to discuss during their next appointment with their doctor. Breakouts around the lips very often indicate digestive issues. Dark heavy circle and puffy eyes very often can be associated with overly stressed kidneys and etc. Clean and balanced foods help you to improve your complexion and you can use them topically as well in the forms of different masks and mists. You can also freeze your masks as ice cubes and defrost them as you need. You can perform skin massage with ice cubes made from herbal tea to reduce puffiness around the eyes. It will give a skin refreshing and tightening effect on your entire face as well.

Q&A with Elina Fedotova: What is Microdermabrasion?

Elina was recently interviewed for Shape Magazine about microdermabrasion. You can read the featured article, What is Microdermabrasion?, here.

“Diamond microdermabrasion uses a wand with a tip covered in, you guessed it, crushed diamonds, and the gritty texture buffs off dead skin, explains Elina Fedotova”

Q. What exactly is microdermabrasion?
A. It is a non invasive procedure used to exfoliate and improve tone and texture of the skin. It can be used on any complexion except rosacea prone skin. It helps to reduce scars and skin discolorations.The procedure uses a special applicator to remove the top layer of skin to smooth and rejuvenate it. Typically you can choose between a crystal or diamond microdermabrasion. The diamond is designed to exfoliate dead skin cells and suction them off at the same time. Crystal microdermabrasion sprays fine crystals to rub away outer layers of the skin and then suctions the skin.

Q. How and why is it beneficial to the skin?
A. People with uneven pigmentation, acne, wrinkles, and clogged pores can benefit from microdermabrasion treatments. There is increased nutrition delivered to skin cells because microdermabrasion stimulates blood flow. This helps to improve texture, smooth the complexion, and rejuvenate the skin.

Q. Can it be helpful for acne and/or acne scars?
A. Yes – Microdermabrasion is a procedure that combines a simultaneous suction and exfoliation. It helps to unclog pores and remove several layers of dead skin cells.

Q. How does a microdermabrasion machine work?
A. Microdermabrasion is a non invasive treatment that typically uses tiny crystals to exfoliate the skin and then suctions up the dead skin with a vacuum from the epidermis.

Q. What happens during a treatment?
A. Usually during the treatment the skin is prepped before the procedure with mild acid or enzyme peel and the esthetician will make sure that the surface is completely dry. The applicator of the machine should be moved to support directions of lymph flow usually from the center of the face towards the ears. The skin is then exfoliated and vacuumed. Clients will not experience an unpleasant sensation. The esthetician might focus more over the scarred or discolored areas. The experienced estheticians will also move the machine over the deep lines and wrinkles to bring more blood circulation and stimulate skin regeneration to reduce the depth of the lines. Right after the procedure skin restoring serums should be applied followed by a skin nourishing mask. For 3-5 after this service the skin of a client will be more photosensitive. So, an esthetician should inform the client about that and suggest to use sun screen and stay away from the sun.

Q. How is it different than dermaplaning?
A. Dermaplaning is different from microdermabrasion because it doesn’t use a suction. During dermaplaning an esthetician gently scratches off excessive dead skin cells with a scalpel.

Q. How is it different than micro needling?
A. During Microneedling an esthetician use devices like dermapen or a dermaroller and breaks the skin with small needles the size of .5mm-3mm. During microneedling the skin is not exfoliated or vacuumed. Microneedling treatment helps to reduce scars and discolorations by producing multiple holes into the skins surface and help our body restore the skin by regenerating new healthy cells. It helps to reduce the appearance of scars and discolorations by stimulating natural skin regeneration.

Q. How do at-home microdermabrasion products work?
A. At home microdermabrasion exfoliate the skin using a crushed diamond covered tip wand which you draw across your skin. The machine itself is less powerful and less effective.

Q. What products would you recommend?
A. After microdermabrasion it is important to support skin regeneration with nourishing and healing skin care products. Out of my line I would suggest Healing Formula and Healing Sea Buckthorn Lotion for problem complexion and for dry and aging complexion I would suggest CBD or Omega Serum with CBD Riche Repairing Face Cream on top. Also Probiotic Polishing Mask could be used in the morning instead of cleansing because the skin has already been stripped and exfoliated you need to improves the skins protective barrier with friendly bacteria.

• Probiotic Polishing Mask
• CBD Riche Repairing Cream

Q&A with Elina Fedotova: How Often Should You Exfoliate?

Elina was recently interviewed about how often people should exfoliate their face for a leading health advice site.

Q. How often should people generally exfoliate their face?
A. It’s different for different skin types. Exfoliation is needed because our skin regenerates from inside out, and as a result, the layers of dead skin cells are pushed to the top of the skin. In some cases, if we are not exfoliating, our skin’s texture will look dry and uneven. Some people have more resilient and plumper skin versus some people have a tendency to have dry and thin skin. So generally, they need to exfoliate less. If we would like to have general advice, at least once a week to polish our skin and remove the excess shells of dead skin cells.

Q. What is the best method to use and what ingredients/qualities should people look for in products?
A. Different methods of exfoliating exist. The most common is simple mechanical exfoliation when we use different types of scrubs, brushes or even exfoliating cloths to rub against your skin to polish and smooth skin by mechanically removing excessive dry skin. Another type of exfoliation is chemical exfoliation used with different types of acids like alpha-hydroxy acids, salicylic acids, as well as fruit enzymes like bromelain from pineapple to meltdown or disintegrate excessive layers of the dead skin cells chemically. For chemical exfoliation, you could use synthetic or natural acids and enzymes.

Q. Should you exfoliate more or less if you have the following and why?
A.

• Dry/sensitive skin: You still have to exfoliate but be careful not to overdo it. For this type of skin, I would recommend fulvic acid because it has a gentle ph and it will naturally exfoliate and heal the skin at the same time with over 60 essential trace minerals. I would not recommend mechanical exfoliation techniques or chemical peels made from artificial and aggressive acids.
• Oily/acne-prone skin: Use beta-hydroxy or salicylic acid as well as azalayic acid peels or products because those two acids have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, in addition, exfoliating benefits. Fulvic acid for the sensitive acne-prone complexion.
• Combination skin: You can’t approach combination skin with one solution. Definitely, thicker and more oily areas, usually t-zone, which have excessive oil and dead skin build-up you can approach a little more aggressively. You can cleanse the pores with scrubs focus on the more congested area, but avoid thinner areas of the skin.
• Mature skin: Usually after 40, people develop thicker layers of the dead skin cells on the surface. To improve the texture, and reduce the depth of lines and wrinkles we usually need to exfoliate more. Of course, you need to choose exfoliation based on your complexion for dry/sensitive, oily/acne-prone, or a combination.

Q. Any other tips would be great!
A. Yes, exfoliation is important. Skin will look tough, dry, and more mature if a person ignores exfoliation throughout their life. But, over-exfoliation could bring even more harm because people who are exfoliating too much can really harm their top layer of the skin which serves as a protective barrier. One of the main functions of the larger organ of the body, our skin, is protection and we need to make sure our top layer is supposed to have several layers of dead skin cells to protect us from infections and other possible harms. A healthy skin’s microbiome is not less important than the microbiome of your gut. Friendly bacteria, such as probiotics, is not only important for your digestion, but also for the health of your skin. Overly aggressive exfoliation, as well as the use of antibacterial soaps and wipes, can seriously affect that balanced zoo of microbes, yeast, and other microorganisms on the surface of your skin. Bottom line, yes we should exfoliate, but do it safely and don’t overdo it.

Q&A with Elina Fedotova: How To Add Essential Oils Into Your Beauty Routine

 

Elina was featured on ASweatLift.com, “How To Add Essential Oils Into Your Beauty Routine”. You can read the full article here.

There are lots of different essential oils to choose from, so it’s important to do your research first to find the ones that will target your specific skin type and concerns. Elina Fedotova, formulator and CEO of Elina Organics, has a few favorites for different skin issues.

Q. What are your favorite essential oils to recommend someone use in their beauty routine and why?

A. My favorite beauty essential oils are a combination of ylang-ylang, sandalwood and another is frankincense. They have an incredible aromatic quality that lifts the mood and supports your skin especially during a change of season and the winter months. These 3 are wonderful for dry and sensitive complexions and have nice anti-aging properties.

Organic Boswellia Carteri, known as Frankincense, is great for cell rejuvenation and skin renewal which makes it ideal for aging complexions. Egyptians have used Frankincense since Ancient times on their skin. Frankincense supports skin on many levels; it has astringent and anti-microbial properties and also helps to heal the skin.

Santalum Album, also known as Sandalwood, comes from India and is one of the oldest known aromas. Sandalwood works well with all types of skin which makes it valuable for combination skin like I have. It has many qualities that help to reduce skin imperfections. It promotes the formation of new skin cells, it also has antiseptic properties making it beneficial to calm dry, chapped, cracked, and inflamed skin.

Cananga odorata, more commonly known as ylang-ylang, is derived from a beautiful white star-shaped flower. It has exotic aromas which help to reduce stress and calm the mind. It is also known for its aphrodisiac qualities. I love adding a few drops of ylang-ylang with sandalwood into a warm evening bath. Ylang-ylang also contains a number of nutrients like eugenol which has strong antibacterial properties, therefore, it will serve all skin types and help to normalize oil production in the skin. You can add ylang ylang to your hair oil and massage it into your scalp. It will improve circulation while nourishing the root of the hair. This oil is soothing, calming and healing your skin.

Q. What are the best ways to incorporate essential oils into your beauty routine?

A. You can create your own aromatherapy oils for your face and body by diluting a total of 1-3 percent of essential oils into a carrier oil. Almond oil is one of my favorites since it is light, I also like to use jojoba and grapeseed oil. You can create many different aromatic formulas; for your face, body, bath, feet, etc. To elevate your mood and relax you could also use jasmine in combination with ylang-ylang and sandalwood. All three create a beautiful, romantic aroma which will uplift your mood and bring you a sense of happiness

For every two drops of essential oil use 200 drops of your carrier oil for your face oils. For body use 3 percent, 6 drops for 200 drops of carrier oil.

All essential oils have anti-microbial properties. This helps to purify the air which is important for prevention during flu season; the presence of essential oils significantly reduces flu viruses. You could diffuse essential oils in a diffuser or put 25 – 30 drops of essential oils into 4 oz. of purified water to create a mist, shake well and spray.

Q. What should you know before using essential oils in your beauty routine?

A. There is a difference between aromatic oils and pure essential oils. Pure essential oils need to be diluted in a carrier oil base, like almond oil, grapeseed oil or jojoba oil. You can also dilute oils in water; however, oil and water do not mix so you will have to be mindful to vigorously shake the bottle each time before you spray. The only essential oil that does not have to be diluted prior to using on your skin is the tea tree which has wonderful anti-inflammatory and anti-viral properties. The smell is not incredibly romantic but it has a grounding scent.

Know Your Ingredients – Educating clients, understanding best practices, and knowing what to avoid

Skin care professionals all know that to achieve desirable corrective results for clients, they need to choose the most effective treatment products and protocols available. This is impossible without analyzing a complete list of ingredients and not just what is featured on the front of the bottle. Usually, featured ingredients look very good, but it is necessary to know what base they are dissolved in and what else is in there.

WHY IT IS IMPORTANT TO UNDERSTAND PRODUCT INGREDIENTS

 

Knowing the complete composition of a cream or serum selected for a client is very important in order to avoid undesirable ingredients and outcomes. For example, if a client has a topical sensitivity to substances like silicone or aspirin, make sure that the formulas selected does not contain dimethicone or any other hard to pronounce word that ends in “cone,”because they are all derivatives of silicone. For those sensitive to aspirin, watch out for salycilic acid or concentrated extract of aspen or willow bark because they contain natural substances called salicylates, which are chemically similar to aspirin.

Looking at just the featured ingredients on a product label can often be misleading. When looking at websites, brochures, or flyers produced by cosmetic companies, notice how they usually focus on only beneficial, healthy, and safe ingredients. For example, a night cream description may include resveratrol, vitamin C, or some botanical extracts, but only by reading the actual label will one discover what kind of emulsifiers, preservatives, emollients, and solvents are used in that particular formula. Remember, the first ingredient listed indicates the highest content of that substance in the product and the last ingredient contains the least.

HEALTH ISSUES

When selecting a product line to work with, make sure that it is not only effective, but completely safe. Professionals absorb more skin care product than any of their clients because they apply and massage them into their clients’ faces and bodies all day long. It is not wrong for a professionalto feel like they must protect themselves from the creams and lotions used on their clients during a procedure. It is one thing to use gloves during cleansing and extractions, but as a holistic aesthetician, it can be hard to deliver therapeutic, energy balancing massages, including acupressure, in gloves. It can be difficult to energetically connect with clients.

THE IMPORTANCE OF EDUCATING CLIENTS

How can skin care professionals encourage clients to use a particular skin care line if they are unfamiliar with the ingredients in those products? Aestheticians must stay up-to-date with the vast amount of research and new ingredients that continue to flood the market. Even after even the best facial, send a client home with corrective, nourishing skin care products that will improve their skin on a daily basis and deliver visible results. To do this, the skin care professional must be able to explain why they need to use a particular formulation and what role each ingredient will play in the restoration of their skin – be the expert.

Start by analyzing the product label together. Discuss with the client how particular ingredients will help improve hyperpigmentation or deep wrinkles or reduce excess sebum production. Bring to their attention the absence of parabens, artificial dyes, fragrances, and other harsh chemicals in the formulations suggested. Encourage them to practice clean beauty. After leaving the spa, they can compare the products they purchased to mass produced department store labels and they will love their skin care professional even more.

Today, skin care professionals work with clients who read articles about the benefits of different trending ingredients. Often they will ask questions about whether or not these trending ingredients will benefit their complexion. If unable to provide answers, the skin care professional risks not only losing credibility, but the client, as well.

DRY AND MATURE COMPLEXIONS

When working with a client who has dry, mature skin, make sure that the skin care products chosen contain powerful humectants. These include hyaluronic acid, tremela (snow mushroom) extract, aloe vera, vegetable glycerinand natural alpha hydroxy acids, as all of these ingredients help to hydrate the skin. Also, make sure that moisture in the skin will be locked in and protected by good, natural emollients like shea and coco butters or grapeseed and other organic plant oils.

Organic vegetable glycerin is a clear, colorless, and odorless liquid with a sweet taste. It is made from plant oils, is water-soluble, and is a food-grade cosmetic ingredient. Glycerin works on the skin as a humectant and emollient at the same time. It helps to hydrate and seal moisture into the skin and is also a wonderful, natural solvent for botanicals.Some other favorite ingredients for dry complexions include the following.

Organic Watermelon Extract: “Watermelon is loaded with antioxidants like vitamin A, vitamin C, and lycopene,” says Dr. Joshua Zeichner, the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. In fact, watermelon extract is a better source of lycopene than tomatoes. Watermelon extract not only hydrates the skin and helps prevent and reduce free radical damage, it hydrates, firms, brightens, and soothes the skin, as well.

Camel Milk: Camel milk is one of the latest trends in natural skin care ingredients. It works better than goat milk for masks and other formulations. Camel milk is rich in natural alpha hydroxy acids, which help exfoliate and hydrate the skin. It also a contains a beautiful blend of skin-firming nutrients, vitamins, and proteins. Because camels live the desert and sometimes must walk for several days without food or water, the milk the females produce has a dense concentration of nutrients.

Peptides: Peptides are fragments of proteins with short chains of up to 50 amino acids that can signal the body to regenerate different types of proteins, including collagen and elastin. Because of this they can deliver many antiaging and skin restoring benefits. Recent research shows that each type of peptide works in a very specific way to delivera particular benefit to the skin, including firming and tightening, lightening, hyperpigmentation reduction, and the relaxation of overactive facial muscles.

Extracts of Wild Mushrooms: “Mushrooms are rich in B complex vitamins, which can do everything from calm inflammation to brighten the skin,” says Dr. Zeichner. White truffle extract is a pricey skin restoring ingredient. In addition to offering a blend of antioxidants, it has a high concentration of vitamin B, which is essential for protein synthesis. Niacin or vitamin B3 is water-soluble and sparks cellular metabolism and DNA repair.

The much more affordable extract of shiitake mushroom is also an effective ingredient. In addition to its hydrating and skin brightening effects, it has also been shown to induce the production of superoxidase dismutase (SOD) and glutathione peroxidase(GPx). Both of these antioxidant enzymes are known for their ability to decrease the effect of oxidative stress on the skin. Other beneficial mushroom extracts include blends of different wild mushrooms like chaga, reishi, maitake, and morels.

ACNE AND ROSACEA

Problematic complexions like acne and rosacea call for skin ingredients with detoxifying, antibacterial, and calming properties.

Salicylic acid naturally occurs in aspen and willow bark extract and other botanicals. It is an effective ingredient, especially for clients with inflamed complexions.

Fulvic acid that is naturally extracted from special types of soil benefits the skin with a nutritious cocktail of trace minerals and electrolytes, which help nourish and heal rosacea-prone complexions.Classic botanicals for problem skin include burdock root, calendula, plantain, St. John’s wort, dandelion root, and milk thistle. Recent research shows that skin care formulations containing extract of milk thistle can help calm inflammation and reduce hyperpigmentation due to the presence of silymarin flavonoids.

Cannabidiol (CBD) extract can benefit any skin complexion. It calms and soothes irritated, sensitive skin. It is also a powerful antioxidant that can help restore sun damaged and skin aging complexions.

CBD is one of over 80 compounds called cannabinoids extracted from the cannabis sativa plant and is the non-psychotropic component of hemp. A 2014 study explored the effects of CBD on human sebocytes, the cells that create sebum. The findings showed that CBD helped balance sebum production.

EMULSIFIERS

Most creams and lotions on the market are made from a blend of water-soluble and oil-soluble skin nourishing ingredients. As skin care professionals know, oil and water do not mix naturally. For them to bond together, they need emulsifiers. This is what helps create a creamy substance called an emulsion. Conventional emulsifiers for personal care products often include chemical mixtures with long complicated names like sodium laureth sulfate, carbomer, PEG-20 stearate, propylene glycol, stearyl alcohol NF, polysorbate 80, and many others. To learn more about the properties and side effects of these ingredients, information can be found online on the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) database and EnvironmentalWorking Group website. The Environmental Working Group is a non-profit organization dedicated to protecting human health and the environment.

Silicone-based emulsifiers like dimethicone have recently become quite popular among formulators. Dimethicone creates a silky coat over the skin and improves the spreadability of creams and lotions. The Food and Drug Administration has approved the use of dimethicone in over-the-counter products.However, it is not recommended to use dimethicone in formulations because it forms a saran wrap-like film over the skin. One of the main functions of the largest organ of the body is elimination, but dimethicone and other silicone-based ingredients can create a greenhouse effect over it, trapping impurities like sweat and sebum under this non-biodegradable coating.

To avoid skin irritating chemicals, work with natural emulsifiers like lecithin, afood-grade phospholipid emulsifier. Phospholipids are fat molecules which are able to create emulsions by binding water and oils together. In addition to forming emulsions, they can help active ingredients penetrate more effectively. During the emulsification process, they create liposomes, which act as vehicles for botanical extracts, vitamins, and minerals. Liposomes then deliver these nutrients through the stratum corneum to nourish the live cells of the skin.

One option is sunflower lecithin, which is also popular in the food industry, due to its emulsifying and antioxidant properties.

Stearic acid is a natural vegetable wax and excellent thickener and emulsion stabilizer for lotions and creams. It also adds a silky feel to skin care products and helps with spreadability.

“Being aware of the ingredients in products used in the spa, as well as understanding which are beneficial and which should be avoided, is crucial for client safety and optimal results.”

PRESERVATIVES

Skin care products need to be protected from the proliferation of pathogens (harmful bacteria) and yeast (fungi).

Unfortunately, many conventional preservatives are not only toxic to bad bacteria but to humans, as well. For this reason, scientists continue to look for safe, skin friendly, antimicrobial substances to use as preservatives. Happily, many formulators have started to avoid parabens and other chemical preservatives with questionable reputations.

 

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most common conventional cosmetic preservatives used today. It is a paraben, formaldehyde-free, and is approved for use around the world. Often, it is combined with sorbic acid to protect formulations from getting moldy.

NATURAL PRESERVATIVES

Willow and aspen bark extracts are rich in salicylates, which help to naturally protect cosmetic and personal care products from contamination.

Black currant extract is another botanical preservative. It can be used to reduce the load of conventional preservatives in a formulation or can be combined with other natural antimicrobials to protect skin care products. Ribes nigrum or black currant is a small fruiting shrub native to Europe and Russia with dark purple and very delicious berries It is rich in vitamin C and other vitamins. Phytochemicals extracted from black currant have antimicrobial properties and can successfully help to preserve cosmetic and personal care products. They also contain high concentrations of antioxidants, ellagitannins, and anthocyanins, which are polyphenols and help to heal and calm the skin.

Today natural preservatives are often made with the help of probiotics, friendly bacteria that promote a healthy skin microbiome and improve its protective barrier. Those skin nourishing preservatives are created by fermenting aloe, radish, or coconut extracts with lactobacillus. In addition to antimicrobial and antifungal properties, this natural and effective multifunctional preservative helps to hydrate the skin.

Many essential oils have historically been used in beauty formulations not only for their sensual aromas but also as natural preservatives. All of them have antibacterial properties but some more than others. Essential oils, like cinnamon, clove, or oregano, help to protect skin care products from contamination because they have strong antimicrobial and antifungal properties. However, skin care professionals cannot fully rely on them because they are volatile.

INGREDIENTS TO AVOID

Beauty and skin care products are designed to look beautiful, but many would argue that some of the ingredients they contain are not. According to United States researchers, one in eight of the 82,000 ingredients used in personal care products are industrial chemicals. They include carcinogens, pesticides, reproductive toxins, and hormone disrupters.

Of course, the only way to discover the plasticizers, degreasers, and surfactants included in many beauty products today is to be educated. While it would be impossible to list all questionable ingredients, here are a few to steer clear of.

Parabens: A group of chemicals called parabens, commonly found in lotions and other personal care products, may be more dangerous, even at low levels of exposure, than previously thought, according to a study published in the journal Environmental Health Perspectives in 2016. Parabens are used to preserve personal care products like shampoos, cosmetics, body lotions, and sunscreens. The problem is that they mimic estrogens, which have been linked to an increased risk of breast cancer and other reproductive problems. Alone, parabens have been considered safe; however, the study showed that when a particular type of paraben was exposed to human growth factors present in the body, they caused it to accelerate breast cancer cell proliferation.

Phthalates: Phthalates are a group of chemicals used to make plastics more flexible and durable. Phthalates can also be used as solvents (dissolving agents) for other materials. They can be found in hundreds of products, including soaps, shampoos, hair sprays, and nail polishes. The hazards posed by these chemicals continue to be studied by several government agencies. At least one type of phthalate is considered to be an endocrine disrupter that can cause cancer, while others have been shown to interfere with human reproduction or development.

Fragrance: The word fragrance conjures up images of flowers and exotic oriental oils. In truth, the Environmental Working Group reports that, while popular perfumes, colognes, and body sprays may contain trace amounts of natural essences, the rest of the product is a potpourri of potentially hazardous, synthetic chemicals. “A rose may be a rose,” reports the Environmental Working Group. “But that rose-like fragrance in your perfume may be something else entirely, concocted from any number of the fragrance industry’s 3,100 stock chemical ingredients, the blend of which is almost always kept hidden from the consumer.” In order to protect trade secrets, fragrance makers are not required to list their ingredients on the label. “Among them are chemicals associated with hormone disruption and allergic reactions and many substances that have not been assessed for safety in personal care products,” If they continue not using organic skin care products, the scent of the formulations used likely contains some of these chemicals, which do not contribute to healthy skin.

Nanoparticles: Nanoparticles are so small they can only be seen under an electron microscope. They are often used to create translucent sunscreens with zinc and titanium oxide. Zinc oxide offers broad-spectrum protection and is a physical sunscreen. In its natural state, it is a white pigment that can leave white marks on the skin and that is why, since 2008, some companies started to grind zinc oxide into tiny nanoparticles to achieve translucent sunscreens. But, in this form, zinc oxide is not as safe and effective. Human and animal studies show that inhaled nanoparticles can gather in the respiratory tract. Moreover, animal studies show that nanoparticles can invade the bloodstream and move onto other organs.

Being aware of the ingredients in products used in the spa, as well as understanding which are beneficial and which should be avoided, is crucial for client safety and optimal results.

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